How to Drill into Brick: Expert Tips for Perfect Holes Every Time

Drilling into brick looks intimidating, but with the right drill, the right bit, and a calm, steady technique, it becomes one of the most reliable DIY skills you can learn. This complete 2026 guide walks you through every decision — from choosing between brick face and mortar joint, to picking a hammer drill versus a rotary hammer, to setting depth, clearing dust, and selecting an anchor that will still be holding tight a decade from now.

Whether you are mounting a 75-inch TV on a chimney breast, attaching a deck ledger, hanging exterior lighting, or just putting up a single floating shelf, the process is the same. By the end of this guide you will have the confidence to tackle any masonry drilling project without cracking a brick, dulling a bit, or burning out your drill motor.

Should You Drill Into the Brick Face or the Mortar Joint?

This is the single most important decision in the whole project, and it is the one most beginners skip. Brick and mortar behave very differently under load, and the right answer depends on three factors: the weight of the item, the age and condition of the masonry, and whether you may want to remove the fixture later.

Drill the Mortar for Light, Easy-to-Patch Items (Under 10 lbs)

Mortar is roughly half as hard as a fired clay brick, so it cuts faster and is far kinder to your drill bit. It is the right choice for picture frames, small mirrors, mailboxes, lightweight planters, alarm sensors, and any cosmetic fixture under about 4.5 kg / 10 lbs. Patching is also painless — a tube of pre‑mixed mortar repair will hide a 6 mm hole almost invisibly, while filling a hole in the brick face requires color‑matching that almost never looks right.

The downside of mortar is unpredictability. Older mortar, especially the soft lime mortar used in homes built before about 1930, often hides voids, hairline cracks, or sandy patches you cannot see from the outside. If your drill suddenly slides in with no resistance for half an inch, you have just discovered a void — and an anchor in that void will not hold anything.

Drill the Brick Face for Heavy or Safety‑Critical Loads

For anything over roughly 10 lbs — TVs, floating shelves with books, kitchen cabinets, deck ledger boards, hose reels full of water, exterior security cameras — drill into the body of the brick. A solid, fired clay brick has a compressive strength of around 3,000 to 10,000 psi and gives an expansion anchor the consistent grip it needs to stay put for years.

There is one big exception. If your bricks show spalling (the face flaking off), efflorescence (white salt deposits), or visible cracks, they are no longer structurally trustworthy. In that situation, look for a sound brick within 50 mm of your target, or switch to the mortar joint and use a chemical/resin anchor that bonds along the full hole rather than wedging outward.

The 1‑Inch Edge Rule You Should Never Break

Wherever you drill, stay at least 1 inch (25 mm) from the edge of any brick. Expansion anchors apply outward radial force as they are tightened, and any brick that has less than an inch of material around the anchor is at risk of having a chunk pop off the corner — a failure mode that is impossible to repair invisibly. For larger 10 mm anchors, push that buffer to 50 mm.

The Right Drill for Brick: Hammer Drill vs. Rotary Hammer vs. Combi Drill

You cannot rely on a regular cordless screwdriver-style drill for masonry work. Brick is a kiln-fired ceramic, and the only efficient way to make a hole in it is to combine rotation with percussion — i.e. to spin the bit while simultaneously pounding it into the wall. Three tools can do that, and choosing the right one depends entirely on how many holes you have to drill and how hard the brick is.

Combi / Hammer Drill — The Right Choice for 90% of DIY Projects

A modern 18 V or 20 V cordless hammer drill with a dedicated masonry mode is the sweet spot for homeowners. It uses two ridged metal discs (often called a “ratchet plate”) that ride over each other to deliver around 20,000–30,000 light blows per minute while the chuck spins. That is more than enough percussion for any standard fired clay brick up to about 12 mm in diameter. If you have never used one before, our how to use a hammer drill guide walks through the controls in detail, and the same trigger discipline used in our cordless drill basics applies here.

Rotary Hammer (SDS / SDS-Plus) — For Hard Brick, Big Holes, or Volume Work

A rotary hammer uses a piston rather than a ratchet plate, so each blow is dramatically more powerful (typically 1.5 to 5 joules of impact energy versus a few hundredths of a joule on a hammer drill). Pick a rotary hammer if you are drilling dense engineering brick, holes larger than 12 mm, or more than ten or twelve holes in one session. Rotary hammers also accept SDS-Plus shanks, which lock in without a chuck key and never slip under load. Many DIYers under‑estimate this tool — a single afternoon with a 24 mm SDS rotary hammer will convince you that a hammer drill was always the wrong choice for masonry. Compare both options in our hammer drill vs. rotary hammer breakdown.

Standard Cordless Drill — Only for Mortar or Very Soft Brick

A regular drill with no hammer mode can work for one or two shallow holes (under about 6 mm wide and 25 mm deep) in soft mortar or aged Victorian brick. Beyond that, it will overheat the bit, polish the inside of the hole instead of cutting it, and most likely fail before you reach the depth you need. If a hammer drill is not in your kit, a corded percussion drill rented from your local tool depot for the day is a much better answer than forcing a regular drill.

Impact Driver — Not a Drill

An impact driver is for driving fasteners, not for drilling masonry. The rotational impact mechanism is poorly suited to bit retention in brick, and the hex chuck cannot accept standard masonry bits. Use it only after the hole is drilled, to drive the screw into the anchor.

Choosing Masonry Drill Bits and Sizing Them Correctly

The bit is the part of your setup that actually meets the brick, and the wrong bit will defeat even the best drill. There are two things to get right: the type of bit and the diameter.

Bit Type: Tungsten Carbide vs. SDS-Plus vs. Diamond

For a standard hammer drill, use a tungsten‑carbide-tipped masonry bit with a smooth round shank that fits a three‑jaw chuck. The carbide tip is brazed onto a wider arrowhead profile so it can crush brick rather than slice it. For a rotary hammer, you must switch to SDS‑Plus shank bits, which have notches that lock into the spring‑loaded tool holder. Diamond‑core bits are only required for hard engineering brick, dense concrete, or porcelain — they are overkill (and expensive) for normal household work. Never substitute a wood, brad‑point, or twist (HSS) bit; the difference between wood and metal bits is enormous, and neither is hard enough to survive even one masonry hole. If you also work on metal, our cobalt vs. titanium bit comparison covers those choices separately. Beginners often miss this, so review the full guide to drill bit types before you start.

Bit Diameter: Match the Anchor, Not the Screw

This is the rule that almost every homeowner gets wrong: the bit diameter must match the wall plug (anchor) size printed on the anchor packet — not the screw size. The screw is sized to bite the inside of the anchor, while the anchor is sized to bite the brick. Use the wrong bit and the anchor will either spin in place or refuse to seat.

Common UK and US guidelines:

• 5 mm anchor → 5 mm bit, takes a #6–#8 (3.5–4 mm) screw — picture frames, alarm sensors.
• 6 mm anchor (red plug) → 6 mm bit, takes a #8–#10 (4–5 mm) screw — small shelves, curtain rods, light brackets.
• 8 mm anchor (brown plug) → 8 mm bit, takes a 5–6 mm screw — TV mounts up to 50 lbs, towel rails, hose reels.
• 10 mm anchor (blue plug) → 10 mm bit, takes a 6–8 mm screw — heavy mirrors, ledger boards, large cabinets.

Bits do dull, especially after a dozen holes in dense brick. A blunt bit polishes the inside of the hole rather than cutting it, so the bit gets hot, the brick gets glazed, and the hole becomes slightly oversized at the surface. Sharpen carbide tips on a bench grinder with a green silicon‑carbide wheel — our drill bit sharpening guide covers the angles. Replace any bit that has a chipped or rounded carbide insert.

Safety Gear: What Every Brick Drilling Job Requires

Brick drilling is louder, dustier, and more hazardous than drilling drywall, and the dust is not just a mess — it is a long‑term health risk.

• N95 (or FFP3) respirator. Brick and mortar dust contains respirable crystalline silica, which the U.S. OSHA classifies as a known carcinogen. A bandana is not enough; you need at least an N95 with a tight seal.
• ANSI Z87.1‑rated safety glasses or a full face shield. Carbide tips fling small, sharp brick chips at high velocity. See ANSI for the rating standard.
• Hearing protection. A hammer drill puts out 100–105 dB at the operator’s ear — within 15 minutes that exceeds the daily safe exposure under OSHA limits. Foam plugs (NRR 29) or earmuffs are both fine.
• Cut‑resistant work gloves. Carbide bits get extremely hot during long holes, and broken brick edges will slice unprotected skin.
• Drop cloth or shop‑vac in a “passive vacuum” position. Catching dust at the source saves an hour of cleanup later, and prevents silica fines from drifting through the rest of the house.

Complete Tool & Supply List

• Hammer drill or SDS‑Plus rotary hammer (cordless 18 V+ or corded)
• Tungsten‑carbide masonry bits — pilot size (5–6 mm) plus the size matching your anchor
• Wall anchors / rawl plugs sized for the load
• Screws to match the anchor (length = anchor depth + thickness of the bracket + about 5 mm)
• Tape measure, pencil, painter’s tape
• Spirit level (or laser level for multi‑hole layouts)
• Stud / wire / pipe detector — non‑negotiable on any wall containing electrics or plumbing
• Center punch or 6d nail for divoting
• Hammer or rubber mallet
• Shop‑vac with crevice tool, plus a small puffer / turkey baster for clearing the hole
• Drop cloth and damp rag for cleanup
• N95 respirator, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves

How to Drill Into Brick: 9‑Step Walkthrough

Follow these steps in order. Skipping the layout, the divot, or the dust clearing is what separates a hole that holds for ten years from one that fails the first time you load the bracket.

Step 1 — Scan the Wall for Hidden Cables and Pipes

Before any pencil mark goes on the wall, run a multi‑mode detector across the area you plan to drill. Check for live AC wiring, copper plumbing, and steel rebar. Most household wiring runs vertically above and horizontally beside outlets and switches, so treat any zone within 6 inches of a socket as suspect. Plastered brick walls often hide old conduits an inch or two below the plaster — drilling through one ruins both your bit and your afternoon.

Step 2 — Measure, Mark, and Verify with a Level

Hold the bracket, TV mount, or shelf template against the wall and mark each hole location with a pencil. For multi‑hole layouts, draw a horizontal reference line with a spirit level first and align all marks to it. Re‑measure once before drilling — a mark that is 5 mm off in brick is unforgiving because you cannot easily fill and re‑drill in a brick face.

Step 3 — Punch a Starting Divot

Hold a center punch (or large nail) on your mark and tap it firmly with a hammer until you see a small dimple in the brick or a flake of glaze. This 1 mm crater stops the bit from “walking” across the surface when you start the drill — by far the most common cause of off‑centre holes. A square of painter’s tape over the mark works as a backup grip if you have no punch.

Step 4 — Set Your Drilling Depth

Hold the anchor next to the bit and wrap a strip of bright painter’s or electrical tape around the bit at a point 3–5 mm deeper than the anchor length. The tape is a visual flag: when its leading edge meets the wall, stop drilling. If your drill has a depth rod, set it to the same measurement and tighten it. For plastered walls, remember the anchor must seat in the brick beneath, not in the plaster — so the hole depth is anchor length plus plaster thickness.

Step 5 — Drill the Pilot Hole

Fit a 5 mm or 6 mm carbide pilot bit. With the chuck perfectly perpendicular to the wall (90° in both axes — a cheap bubble level on top of the drill helps), set the drill to low speed, hammer mode off. Squeeze the trigger gently and let the bit cut a 3–4 mm starter pocket without percussion. This prevents surface spalling on harder bricks. Then engage hammer mode, raise the speed, and continue with steady forward pressure until the pilot reaches full depth.

Pulse drilling for control: if your drill has only one speed, work in 2‑second bursts followed by a 1‑second pause. This keeps the bit cool and gives you a moment to confirm the drill is still square to the wall.

Step 6 — Open the Hole to Final Diameter

Swap to the bit that matches the anchor. Insert the tip into the pilot hole, confirm perpendicular alignment again, and drill at medium speed in hammer mode. Let the tool pull itself in — pushing harder slows you down because you are loading the percussion mechanism rather than letting it work.

Heat warning: after 30+ seconds of continuous drilling, withdraw the bit fully every few seconds to let the carbide cool in the air and to clear chips from the flutes. Do not dip a hot carbide bit into water; the thermal shock can crack the carbide tip clean off.

Step 7 — Clear All Dust from the Hole

This is the step that makes or breaks the install. Loose brick dust acts like a ball bearing layer between the anchor and the brick. Blow the hole out with compressed air, a turkey baster, or your shop‑vac (use a small crevice tool jammed against the hole). Then run the bit in and out once more dry, and vacuum again. The hole should look matte and clean, not powdery.

Step 8 — Insert the Anchor

Tap the anchor in with a rubber mallet until the rim is flush with the brick surface. If it stops short, your hole is too shallow or has uncleared dust — back the anchor out and re‑clear. If it slides in with no resistance, the hole is oversized and you need to either move 50 mm to a fresh spot or switch to a chemical anchor. For sleeve anchors and Tapcons, you skip the plug entirely and drive the anchor directly into the masonry.

Step 9 — Drive the Screw and Verify Level

Position the bracket and drive the screw with a regular driver or low‑torque setting on your impact driver. Stop as soon as the bracket pulls firmly against the wall — overtightening will strip a plastic anchor. Check the bracket with a level, hang the fixture, and load‑test gently before walking away.

Choosing the Right Anchor for Brick

An anchor is only as strong as the match between its mechanism and the material around it. These are the five most useful anchor types for brick, ranked from lightest to heaviest duty:

1. Plastic Expansion Plugs (Rawl Plugs)

The classic ribbed plastic plug. Cheap, simple, and ideal for items up to about 25 lbs per plug — small shelves, curtain poles, picture rails, hose hooks. Matched correctly to bit and screw, two well‑placed 6 mm plugs will easily carry a curtain rail full of heavy drapes.

2. Self‑Tapping Concrete Screws (Tapcons)

These hex‑ or Phillips‑head screws cut their own thread directly into the brick — no plug required. They are quick, removable, and reliable for medium loads (TV brackets up to 50 lbs, wall‑mounted shelving). You must use the exact pilot bit supplied with the box; oversize pilot holes will strip out instantly.

3. Sleeve Anchors

A bolt inside a metal sleeve. As you tighten the bolt, the sleeve splays outward and grips the brick. Excellent for ledger boards, deck attachments, and fence posts mounted to brick. Choose the longest sleeve you can fit — the deeper the engagement, the higher the safe working load.

4. Wedge Anchors

Heavier‑duty cousin of the sleeve anchor with a single wedge clip at the tip. Best for hard concrete brick, but on softer clay brick they can crack the surrounding material if overtightened. Always pre‑drill to the manufacturer’s exact diameter and stop torquing when the clip seats.

5. Chemical / Resin Anchors

The strongest option and the right choice for old, cracked, or hollow brick. You inject a two‑part epoxy or polyester resin into the hole and push a threaded rod in; the resin bonds the rod along its full length, distributing load through the brick rather than wedging outward. Used correctly, a chemical anchor in mortar can outperform a mechanical anchor in solid brick.

Spreading the Load: French Cleats and Backer Plates

For very heavy or wide fixtures, do not rely on two anchors carrying everything. A horizontal French cleat anchored across four or five bricks distributes the load evenly, and a steel backer plate behind a TV mount turns four small holes into a single rigid frame. Both techniques dramatically reduce the chance of a single anchor failure tearing your fixture off the wall.

How to Drill Into Brick Without Cracking It

Cracked brick is almost always the result of one of five mistakes. Avoid all five and your masonry will outlast the fixture you are hanging on it.

• Starting with hammer mode engaged. The first 3 mm of any masonry hole is the most fragile. Begin in standard rotary mode, then engage percussion only after the bit has bitten in.
• Drilling too close to an edge or to another hole. Keep at least 25 mm from a brick edge and at least 50 mm from any neighbouring anchor.
• Excessive forward pressure. The drill is supposed to do the work; you should only need 5–8 lbs of forward pressure. Anything more transfers shock to the brick and can split it.
• A blunt bit with hammer mode on. A worn carbide tip cannot bite, so the percussion energy goes straight into the brick as shock instead of into the cutting edge. Replace or sharpen.
• Drilling old or weathered brick at full speed. Reduce trigger speed to about 50% on aged masonry and consider chemical anchors instead of mechanical expansion.

Troubleshooting: 10 Real Problems and What to Do

1. The Drill Bit Won’t Bite — It Just Spins

Either hammer mode is off, the bit is dull, the battery is below 30%, or the chuck has the bit in reverse. Check each in that order; a low battery on a cordless hammer drill is far more often the cause than people realise, because percussion energy drops sharply as voltage sags.

2. The Bit Goes In Way Too Easily

You have hit a void in the mortar, an old chase that was filled with sand, or the back side of a hollow cavity. Pull the bit out, plug the hole with a wooden dowel and PVA glue, let it set, and re‑drill 50 mm to either side. For load‑bearing fixtures, switch to a resin anchor that fills the void.

3. The Bit Suddenly Stops Progressing

You have hit metal — usually rebar in a reinforced lintel, a wall tie between two skins of brick, or a forgotten nail. Stop immediately. Continuing will overheat your bit and may shock the drill. Move the hole at least 30 mm in any direction and re‑scan with your detector before drilling.

4. Brick Dust Is Coming Out Brown / Red and Then Suddenly Grey

You have drilled through the brick face and into the mortar bed behind it. That is normal on a 3.5‑inch‑deep anchor, but it changes how the anchor grips. Use a longer plug or chemical anchor so the load is shared across both layers.

5. The Anchor Spins When I Tighten the Screw

The hole is oversized, full of dust, or both. Remove the anchor, vacuum the hole, wrap one turn of brass wire around the anchor, and re‑seat. If it still spins, switch to a larger anchor or a chemical fix.

6. The Anchor Won’t Go In Flush

Either the hole is too narrow (re‑run the bit) or there is a chunk of debris partway down (clear with the bit at low speed and vacuum again).

7. The Bit Is Smoking

Withdraw immediately. The carbide tip can lose its temper at around 600 °C and never cut properly again. Let it air‑cool — never quench in water. Slow down your speed and use shorter pulses.

8. A Chunk of Brick Face Has Popped Off

You drilled too close to the edge or used too much pressure. For aesthetic repairs, mix a brick‑colour patch compound (sold by Brixie or Tubelite). For structural concerns, move to the next brick down and use a chemical anchor.

9. The Hole Is Slightly Off‑Centre

Either you skipped the divot or the brick had a hidden hard aggregate that pushed the bit sideways. Fill the wrong hole with mortar repair, let it cure 24 hours, then re‑mark and re‑drill.

10. My Cordless Drill Keeps Cutting Out

Cordless drills have thermal cutoffs that trip after 15–20 holes in dense brick. Let the tool rest for 10 minutes between batches, swap to a fresh battery, or rent an SDS rotary hammer for the day.

Drilling Through Brick for Cables, Vents, and Pipes

Through‑wall holes for tumble dryer vents, satellite cables, mini‑split lines, or condensate pipes use a slightly different approach. The hole is wider (typically 50–125 mm), goes all the way through the wall, and must slope very slightly downward toward the outside so rainwater drains away from the building.

Use a core bit on an SDS rotary hammer rather than a regular masonry bit. Mark both faces of the wall using a long bubble level or a laser, drill a small pilot hole all the way through first, then enlarge from each side toward the middle to avoid blowing out the exit face. After installation, seal the gap around the pipe or cable with exterior‑grade silicone or expanding masonry foam.

What to Do If You Hit Rebar, a Wall Tie, or Buried Metal

Reinforced lintels, cavity wall ties, and the occasional buried nail are all common in brick walls. The moment progress stops and you hear a metallic ring or feel the bit chattering, release the trigger. Pull the bit out, scan again, and reposition the hole. If you absolutely must continue through metal, switch to a cobalt or carbide multi‑material bit on rotation only (no hammer), drill slowly, and apply cutting oil — but a relocated hole is almost always the smarter answer.

Cleanup and Silica Containment

Brick dust looks innocuous and is anything but. Particles smaller than 5 microns lodge permanently in lung tissue and can cause silicosis years after exposure. Treat cleanup as part of the safety procedure, not an afterthought.

• Vacuum dust from the hole, the wall, and the floor with a HEPA‑filtered shop‑vac. A regular bagless vacuum will simply re‑emit fine particles into the air.
• Wipe the surrounding wall with a damp microfibre cloth — never sweep dry, which aerosolises the dust.
• Bag the dust and the cloth before disposal.
• Wash work clothes separately from household laundry, and shower before changing back to indoor clothes.
• If you are drilling many holes (e.g. installing a kitchen of cabinets), tape a Ziploc bag with the corner cut open over the hole as a passive dust catcher, or use a drill‑mounted dust shroud connected to a vacuum.

Maintaining and Sharpening Masonry Drill Bits

Carbide masonry bits do not last forever. After roughly 25–50 holes in dense brick, the carbide insert will round over and start polishing rather than cutting. You can extend the bit’s life by cleaning it after every session — a wire brush removes packed dust from the flutes and a drop of light oil on the shank prevents corrosion.

To sharpen, use a green silicon‑carbide grinding wheel and gently restore the flat cutting faces of the carbide insert. Hold the bit at the same angle the manufacturer ground it (usually about 60° included) and never let the carbide change colour from heat — quench briefly in air, never water. If the insert is chipped, replace the bit; sharpening a damaged tip is not worth the time.

Repairing Mistakes and Old Holes in Brick

When you need to remove a fixture and patch the holes, the right material depends on whether the hole is in the brick face or the mortar joint. For a mortar joint, scrape any loose material out with a screwdriver, dampen the joint, and press fresh mortar repair from a tube into the cavity, then strike it flush with a jointing tool. For a hole in the brick face, fill with a brick‑coloured patch compound that you can tint to match the surrounding wall — Big Wally’s Brick Repair, Tubelite, or a custom mortar mix with iron oxide pigment all work well. Allow 24–48 hours to cure before sanding lightly with a 220‑grit pad.

Alternatives to Drilling Into Brick

If the wall is in fragile condition, you are renting and cannot make permanent holes, or you simply want to avoid the dust, several no‑drill solutions exist for light to medium loads:

• Brick clip hangers — sprung steel clips that hook over the top edge of a standard brick. Carry up to 25 lbs without any holes.
• Heavy‑duty masonry adhesive strips (e.g. 3M Command Outdoor) — only on smooth, sealed brick, and only for flat lightweight items.
• Free‑standing or floor‑braced shelving that simply leans against the wall.
• Magnetic or peel‑and‑stick mounts for lightweight cables and decor.

For heavier projects on interior brick, a stud‑mounted bracket on the adjacent timber or steel frame is usually safer than risking a marginal anchor in old masonry. If the wall is drywall over brick, our drilling into drywall guide shows how to identify which surface you are actually fixing into.

Brick Drilling vs. Other Masonry: Concrete, Stone, and Tile

The technique you have just learned transfers well to other masonry projects with a few adjustments:

• Concrete — use the same hammer drill or rotary hammer, but expect to drill 30–50% slower. Heavy concrete almost always benefits from an SDS tool. See how to drill a hole in concrete.
• Concrete block (cinder block) — hollow on the inside, so use toggle anchors or epoxy anchors rather than expansion plugs. Our pegboard on concrete walls guide walks through hollow‑wall fastening.
• Natural stone (granite, limestone) — start without hammer mode and only engage percussion if necessary. Diamond bits often outperform tungsten carbide on harder stones.
• Tile over brick — drill the tile first with a diamond bit at slow speed and no hammer, then switch to masonry mode for the brick beneath. Full procedure in our drilling into tile guide.
• Steel lintels or wall ties — switch to a cobalt or HSS bit and rotation only, see how to drill stainless steel.

For a broader overview of which materials each type of hammer drill can handle, our hammer drill materials guide is a useful companion read.

Pro Tips That Separate Good Holes From Great Ones

• Charge two batteries. Hammer drilling drains a 4 Ah battery in about 15–20 holes. Swap before voltage sags and percussion drops.
• Tape a small bag under the hole. A sandwich bag taped just below catches 80% of the dust before it hits the floor.
• Drill a “test” hole in a hidden brick first. If the wall is unfamiliar, drill 50 mm into a brick behind a future appliance to gauge hardness before committing to the visible holes.
• Mark “danger zones” with painter’s tape. Tape a vertical strip above and below every wall socket so you never accidentally drill into the safety zone for the cable run.
• Photograph layout marks before drilling. Quick phone photo means you can re‑establish the layout if a mark gets brushed off.
• Use cordless even if you own corded. The freedom to maintain a perfectly square stance with no cable drag pays off in straighter holes.

Authoritative External References

• U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) — silica exposure rules and PPE requirements for construction.
• Portland Cement Association — technical guidance on mortar composition, brick bonding, and anchor performance.
• American National Standards Institute (ANSI) — Z87.1 eye protection standard for impact‑rated safety glasses.

Conclusion

Drilling into brick is not a difficult skill — it is a sequence of small, deliberate decisions: brick or mortar, hammer drill or rotary hammer, carbide tip or SDS, plug or chemical anchor, with or without a divot, with or without dust in the hole. Get each of those right and the hole you drill today will still be holding tight when you sell the house. Skip them and even a perfect drill will not save you. Take ten extra minutes to scan the wall, mark cleanly, set your depth tape, and clear the dust — and you will replace the fear of drilling brick with the confidence to take on every masonry project the rest of your home has waiting for you.

Frequently Asked Questions